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Canine Behaviour Shelter Course FODS Shelter Initiative SI - 3 - Physical & Mental Stimulation |
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FODS Shelter Initiative - "The Journey to Improved Quality of Life"
1. General
2. Sense of Smell
3. Mental and Physical Stimulation and games to play
2. Sense of Smell
3. Mental and Physical Stimulation and games to play
Based on the ideas below, we ask each and every one of you to start making and collecting and to bring them with you on the first session. If you can get people to donate Busy Buddies or Kongs or perhaps the Rogz Toys with holes in them, we will be off to a good start providing entertainment for the dogs. You will not believe the difference simple things like this can make reducing the boredom.
1. General
Ideas to stimulate, entertain and prevent boredom and frustration are important for all dogs, especially where behaviour concerns are present. Imagine the entertainment that these can supply to dogs in shelters! Simply putting in a Digging Pit, a small pool using a child's sandpit shell container to paddle in and lie in, a tyre suspended that the dog can play with - and not to forget the all important Kong or Busy Buddy Squirrel Dude that is stuffed and left for the dog - heaven!
Add to the above the daily walks and human interaction that the chosen dogs to be worked on at the shelter will be getting, and all of a sudden the dogs stay in the shelter changes to a hugely improved experience - this will help the dogs to cope better and also improve behaviour. Additionally, we will be adding in mental stimulation by way of teaching the dog some basic obedience exercises and the cherry on top - some wonderful TTouch is thrown in for good measure!
As behaviourists working in the home environment, we see daily that the second one brings in mental and physical stimulation, especially daily walks, there is a noticeable improvement in the current behaviour concerns, regardless of what behaviour concern is being experienced and this will apply in the shelter environment as well. Having this additional stimulation tends to reduce the importance of other aspects the dog regards as important and gives them something else to do and look forward too.
In the late 1900's research was done on 45 dogs in Austria (unfortunately the original research we had was lost when our hard drive crashed some years ago) that all had very serious behaviour problems. No behaviour modification was brought in, no medication was used - all that transpired was that for a 30-day period (remembering it takes a minimum of 21 -30 days to start to change a habit) the dogs were exposed to various scenting work during the day.
Some dogs went for walks once a day, others for walks several times a day, while another few dogs were engaged in scenting exercises both naturally and as set up exercises - in general the dogs were all stimulated by using their sense of smell. At the end of the study there was an amazing 60% reduction in the behaviour concerns! This highlights for us exactly why it is so very important for all owners to get their dogs out for a daily walk and the exact same thing applies in the shelter environment - we have never yet seen an instance whereby there was not an immediate and considerable reduction in the problem behaviour when daily walks were brought in. Where breeds such as hounds were concerned, to stimulate the sense of smell further, treats hidden in the garden for them to find provides additional stimulation, and in the shelter the same thing could be done by hiding treats for the dog to find while out for a walk, or by bringing in simple behaviour scenting games into the run.
It is also a good idea to try to focus on ideas to stimulate which are breed related i.e. lots of balls, Frisbees being thrown for a Retriever or the Flirt Pole and Digging Pits and Tyre on Rope for the Terrier breed.
All dogs are natural prey animals so any games that involve chase and pulling will help to stimulate the natural prey drive. Below you will find ideas that can be brought in both with, and without people being present and can be used in the shelter environment - this gives you ideas to help to build confidence, strengthen bond with humans, and totally change the dogs experience in the shelter.
The ideas presented here are those which have been given, or sourced to us over the years - so a grateful thank you to all of these people!
2. Sense of Smell
Not only does a dog's nose make up most of its face, it makes up a large part of their brain, and the smelling section of a dog’s brain is approximately 40 times larger than that of humans. A dog smells by air-scenting (sniffing volatile oils that are travelling in the air - you would have seen a dog with its nose pointing upwards, smelling- that's the air scenting!) and of course sniffing the ground and any new object, person or animal it comes across. Dogs also have the ability to identify smells much better than we do, and it is estimated that this is in the region of between 1 500-10 000 times better than us humans.
We all understand that smell is the strongest of all a dogs senses, but not all people realize just how strong it actually is. The dog’s sense of smell is over 45 times more developed than humans. This translates to about 5 million scent glands in a human, and between 100 – 300 million in a dog! This is obviously breed dependent with some breeds having better smelling abilities than others.
A Dachshund is estimated to have 125 million scent glands, Fox Terrier about 140 million, the GSD and Beagle are about the same being in the region of 225-250 million scent glands, and then comes the Bloodhound with about 300 million.
You can now appreciate how important it is for a dog to have the opportunity of daily scenting - this is something that a dog actually needs - it is not a luxury. Think also, how frustrating it must be for a dog in a shelter to smell all these wonderful scents around and it cannot get out to smell them as it is kept in a run - the frustration must be enormous. Just remember the difference that the daily scenting made as mentioned above - imagine what this could do for the dogs in the shelter!
You will occasionally see a dog wrinkling their upper lips (almost like a snarl) and then open their mouth. This has nothing to do with aggression or having something stuck in their teeth – the dog is engaging in a behaviour called ‘Flehmen’ which serves to increase the opening of the ducts connecting to the Jacobson’s organ and allows the dog to smell pheromones easier. - this is mostly sexually related, however it can happen as well when a dog smells something very different. We have noted at times like this the dog appears to lift its head up slightly in the direction which the scent is coming from. In the examples below you will see that in both the Horse and the Sheep the effect is more exaggerated.
Not only does a dog's nose make up most of its face, it makes up a large part of their brain, and the smelling section of a dog’s brain is approximately 40 times larger than that of humans. A dog smells by air-scenting (sniffing volatile oils that are travelling in the air - you would have seen a dog with its nose pointing upwards, smelling- that's the air scenting!) and of course sniffing the ground and any new object, person or animal it comes across. Dogs also have the ability to identify smells much better than we do, and it is estimated that this is in the region of between 1 500-10 000 times better than us humans.
We all understand that smell is the strongest of all a dogs senses, but not all people realize just how strong it actually is. The dog’s sense of smell is over 45 times more developed than humans. This translates to about 5 million scent glands in a human, and between 100 – 300 million in a dog! This is obviously breed dependent with some breeds having better smelling abilities than others.
A Dachshund is estimated to have 125 million scent glands, Fox Terrier about 140 million, the GSD and Beagle are about the same being in the region of 225-250 million scent glands, and then comes the Bloodhound with about 300 million.
You can now appreciate how important it is for a dog to have the opportunity of daily scenting - this is something that a dog actually needs - it is not a luxury. Think also, how frustrating it must be for a dog in a shelter to smell all these wonderful scents around and it cannot get out to smell them as it is kept in a run - the frustration must be enormous. Just remember the difference that the daily scenting made as mentioned above - imagine what this could do for the dogs in the shelter!
You will occasionally see a dog wrinkling their upper lips (almost like a snarl) and then open their mouth. This has nothing to do with aggression or having something stuck in their teeth – the dog is engaging in a behaviour called ‘Flehmen’ which serves to increase the opening of the ducts connecting to the Jacobson’s organ and allows the dog to smell pheromones easier. - this is mostly sexually related, however it can happen as well when a dog smells something very different. We have noted at times like this the dog appears to lift its head up slightly in the direction which the scent is coming from. In the examples below you will see that in both the Horse and the Sheep the effect is more exaggerated.
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3. Mental and Physical Stimulation
These can be used for dogs in shelters and those in the home environment. If more dogs were given daily walks and activities to keep them busy in the garden, there would be a dramatic improvement in behaviour and dogs being surrendered due to bad behaviour
Daily Walks
Possibly the most important aspect as we have already said, and what must be remembered is that this is the dogs time and the more the dog can engage in sniffing and smelling, the more stress levels will be reduced. What one often finds with shelter dogs is that they seem to just want to go full speed - it is important to get them to walk slower (even stopping on occasion) and try talking to them softly - this will help them to relax and you will find that they will soon start smelling - this is when a big difference is being made to the stress levels, although it can take one or two walks with the dog before this happens.
We mentioned earlier that what is ideal is that on every walk find a place in the shade to sit with the dog for about ten minutes, and if grass is available even better. We see repeatedly in the shelter environment that dogs love this, especially dogs that have not had the opportunity of rolling on grass for a while. It is lovely to see them roll, rub and stretch and they also look more relaxed after this - ideal time to do some TTouch or just talk to the dog softly. This is a valuable time of peace and quiet and the benefits are tremendous - do this away from any other dogs or people that may also be walking other dogs.
While out walking the dogs, every few minutes, call the dog back to you and offer a treat - call the dog back to you and ask for a Sit - call the dog back to you and do a little bit of TTouch (you will be learning how) - call the dog back to you and just give a little bit of love. All these not only make the walk more stimulating - you are building the bond between dog and human and the human will become more important to the dog. Remembering that when a prospective owner is connecting with a dog, there is a very short time period for eye contact and an emotional connection to be made - 30 seconds. By making people more important to dogs than other dogs you are raising the dogs chances of adoption!
IMust just mention, that in the home environment, if you take your dog out for a run or a jog, break into sections so that the dog can scent as well.
The rest of these suggestions below should be in addition to daily walks. The dogs that are being focused on in the shelter should receive at least one walk per day. Additionally these dogs to have more human interaction based on the work we will be doing with the dogs.
Games
If there is an area in the shelter where the dogs can be off-lead, then make as much use of this area as possible and this can even be combined with a walk - if not, do make this a priority on the 'to do' list. . This can serve as an additional training time with the dog coming back, sitting etc, however, more than anything else, this should be fun, fun, fun for the dog! It has been shown repeatedly in humans that when we are relaxed and having fun it is much easier to learn, and we believe the same applies for dogs as well as lower stress levels and increase the bond with human.
Games of throwing the ball/Frisbee. Don’t always make these into training sessions by getting the dog to retrieve properly. Rather have a cue for a formal retrieve and then another cue for ‘fun’ where you can just throw various objects (have several with you) and up to the dog if it brings it back or not. This applies at the shelter as well - have an area where the dog can run off-lead with a person present and great games of ball, Frisbee can be played.
These can be used for dogs in shelters and those in the home environment. If more dogs were given daily walks and activities to keep them busy in the garden, there would be a dramatic improvement in behaviour and dogs being surrendered due to bad behaviour
Daily Walks
Possibly the most important aspect as we have already said, and what must be remembered is that this is the dogs time and the more the dog can engage in sniffing and smelling, the more stress levels will be reduced. What one often finds with shelter dogs is that they seem to just want to go full speed - it is important to get them to walk slower (even stopping on occasion) and try talking to them softly - this will help them to relax and you will find that they will soon start smelling - this is when a big difference is being made to the stress levels, although it can take one or two walks with the dog before this happens.
We mentioned earlier that what is ideal is that on every walk find a place in the shade to sit with the dog for about ten minutes, and if grass is available even better. We see repeatedly in the shelter environment that dogs love this, especially dogs that have not had the opportunity of rolling on grass for a while. It is lovely to see them roll, rub and stretch and they also look more relaxed after this - ideal time to do some TTouch or just talk to the dog softly. This is a valuable time of peace and quiet and the benefits are tremendous - do this away from any other dogs or people that may also be walking other dogs.
While out walking the dogs, every few minutes, call the dog back to you and offer a treat - call the dog back to you and ask for a Sit - call the dog back to you and do a little bit of TTouch (you will be learning how) - call the dog back to you and just give a little bit of love. All these not only make the walk more stimulating - you are building the bond between dog and human and the human will become more important to the dog. Remembering that when a prospective owner is connecting with a dog, there is a very short time period for eye contact and an emotional connection to be made - 30 seconds. By making people more important to dogs than other dogs you are raising the dogs chances of adoption!
IMust just mention, that in the home environment, if you take your dog out for a run or a jog, break into sections so that the dog can scent as well.
The rest of these suggestions below should be in addition to daily walks. The dogs that are being focused on in the shelter should receive at least one walk per day. Additionally these dogs to have more human interaction based on the work we will be doing with the dogs.
Games
If there is an area in the shelter where the dogs can be off-lead, then make as much use of this area as possible and this can even be combined with a walk - if not, do make this a priority on the 'to do' list. . This can serve as an additional training time with the dog coming back, sitting etc, however, more than anything else, this should be fun, fun, fun for the dog! It has been shown repeatedly in humans that when we are relaxed and having fun it is much easier to learn, and we believe the same applies for dogs as well as lower stress levels and increase the bond with human.
Games of throwing the ball/Frisbee. Don’t always make these into training sessions by getting the dog to retrieve properly. Rather have a cue for a formal retrieve and then another cue for ‘fun’ where you can just throw various objects (have several with you) and up to the dog if it brings it back or not. This applies at the shelter as well - have an area where the dog can run off-lead with a person present and great games of ball, Frisbee can be played.
Below 3 simple things to entertain - a frozen ice block which can be made from small to large containers such as below and also have flavouring or treats in it - a cereal box with treats inside which has been taper shut - a cardboard box (all different sizes) which has some treats inside which could even be hidden in old paper.
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Tyre or Rope toy on a rope
When interactive these are great entertainment for a dog and it just has to be taught how to play with it by itself which is very easy to do. Suspend a rope from a pole or a tree and ideally have the tyre or rope just above the dogs head but close enough that it can bite onto the rope or tyre. Have a game of pullies with the dog to get it started. If the dog is a bit hesitant, you can smear on a bit of liver paste or similar to make it more appealing or else soak it in beef or chicken broth and then let it dry completely. Not all dogs will enjoy this - many dogs have never been taught how to play. Two dogs in the same run can also enjoy this game, however ensure there is no resource guarding present. In the shelter environment, depending on the manner the dogs are housed, these could be suspended from the roof, or a pole put up in the run.
Care to be taken where types are concerned as standard car tyres contain metal. Rather the smaller tyres from drag cars or ones purchased in a pet shop – just check regarding the wire as a safe guard.
Here is How to make your own Tug Toy - Fleece really is the best and strongest material to use, however old tracksuit material and old socks are great as well. Each strip should be about 2 - 3 " wide and about 15 - 24 " long. Braid them as tightly as you can and then knot the bottom as in the picture. As above you can use liver paste or soak as described to make more appealing.
You can take this a step further and cut a hole in either end of a tennis ball and thread the braid through it.
Swimming or Paddle Pool
A Paddle pool in the run can supply a way to cool down and also entertainment. What many dogs love is when one puts some toys that float into the water and the dogs have great fun trying to pick these up.
In the home situation a daily swim provides great exercise and throwing objects in the be retrieved makes it even better. As many dogs can become itchy or even allergic to the chlorine in a pool and it can also dry the coat - rather hose them off when they have finished swimming.
Water Bottles
Although these can be used in so many different ways, we do have to bear in mind that they can cause problems and this has to be taken into account when the decision to use them or not is taken. However they can supply so much stimulation and what may be a good idea is a compromise - allow the bottles when used as below and take them away before they get chewed up. They are such an easy solution to provide entertainment and preventing boredom that we feel we must mention them. The dangers are:-
Ways in which they can be used to provide entertainment:-
Ice Blocks
Instead of a bottle as used above, prepare the mixture in the same manner and when cool add to a plastic container with some kibble/treats in it and then freeze. The ice block can then be turned out so that the container is saved. This can be given to the dog to lick and play with in the run. Dogs have great fun with these and it keeps them cool - however apparently ice such as this can cut into the mouth although we have not yet come across this experience - most dogs lick it as opposed to chew on them.
Cardboard Boxes
Got a nice little cardboard box? Dont throw it away!
Ingredients
Preparations
A Paddle pool in the run can supply a way to cool down and also entertainment. What many dogs love is when one puts some toys that float into the water and the dogs have great fun trying to pick these up.
In the home situation a daily swim provides great exercise and throwing objects in the be retrieved makes it even better. As many dogs can become itchy or even allergic to the chlorine in a pool and it can also dry the coat - rather hose them off when they have finished swimming.
Water Bottles
Although these can be used in so many different ways, we do have to bear in mind that they can cause problems and this has to be taken into account when the decision to use them or not is taken. However they can supply so much stimulation and what may be a good idea is a compromise - allow the bottles when used as below and take them away before they get chewed up. They are such an easy solution to provide entertainment and preventing boredom that we feel we must mention them. The dangers are:-
- The top of the bottle can come off and be swallowed - this can be avoided by taking the top off the bottle where possible.
- Dogs can tear off pieces of plastic, swallow it which can lead to a blockage or even cuts in the mouth due to sharp edges.
Ways in which they can be used to provide entertainment:-
- A piece of thick material either sewn or tied around the bottle, or even put inside an old sock - most dogs love the noise that these make and the chewing of the material is great fun and extra entertainment - beware of pieces being swallowed however. We have found that fleece type materials is often the best option and the hardest to shred.
- An alternative to above is that with a 200/250ml bottle, one can put some treats in it and then put inside several pairs of old socks instead of the material.
- Starting off with a 200 or 250 ml bottle, boil water and put into a measuring cup. To this add 1 teaspoon of either Bovril or Marmite. When this has cooled fill the bottle up 3/4 of the way (ice will expand so always 3/4 full) and pop in the freezer. Once frozen, personally we take the top off and present to the dog to chew on - this keeps them busy for ages and they love the taste of the flavoured water. Do be aware that with some dogs the marmite or bovril may upset tummies so cut down the quantity and obviously not for dogs with allergies. Once the dog gets used to this bigger bottles can be used.
- Take a 1 litre or 2 litre cold drink bottle and cut smooth round holes in it big enough so that dog cubes can fall out - but not too easily (here having a hubby or friend with a garage with a drill that can do this is an advantage). Put in about a handful or two of cubes - put on the top and give to the dog - they love this and will toss, it chase it, chew on it for ages.
Ice Blocks
Instead of a bottle as used above, prepare the mixture in the same manner and when cool add to a plastic container with some kibble/treats in it and then freeze. The ice block can then be turned out so that the container is saved. This can be given to the dog to lick and play with in the run. Dogs have great fun with these and it keeps them cool - however apparently ice such as this can cut into the mouth although we have not yet come across this experience - most dogs lick it as opposed to chew on them.
Cardboard Boxes
Got a nice little cardboard box? Dont throw it away!
Ingredients
- An empty cardboard box (size may vary)
- (news) paper and a dogsnack
Preparations
- Open the box at one side
- Hide a dogsnack in a couple of papers and make a clod - Hide the clod(s) in the box
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The Daxi above has a bottle that has been covered with thick material and makes a great crunchy noise. The dog on right has a tyre to pull and chew on - the trye does not have to be as high as this.
Digging Pit
If the run is big enough to put in a Digging Pit, even if a small one, this is a great way to reduce boredom and provide further stimulation. If run is not big enough, then do consider putting one (or even more) in the free play area.
Digging is a natural, instinctive behaviour, even more so in some breeds than others, such as the Terrier breeds that were bred to dig. Breeds such as the Alaskan malamute and Siberian husky like to dig an impression in the soil to cool themselves off and Labs love digging as well. You will notice that some dogs (again especially Terriers) will dig beds on the couch or your own bed before they lie down.
The dog’s ancestors used to dig holes for protection, to store leftover bones in (some dogs still do this today), to protect their young from predators and to have a den to give birth in.
Other reasons that dogs dig is they are attracted by the smell of manure, dig out of boredom, to get rid of excess energy or to release stress or anxiety, the dog may further be rewarded by the behaviour by finding little creepy crawlies, or it may even dig just for fun.
A digging pit is like a sandbox for dogs, great to play in. Now why would your dog dig in the digging pit rather than the rose garden? Simple, you make it rewarding for the dog to dig in the legal area simply by putting in toys, chewies, bones etc in it. Have the dog next to you and let him see you place a nice bone or chew toy in the dig box. Cover it up, then making a digging motion yourself, say ‘dig, dig’ in an excited voce. As the dog is already a digger it will be quick to mimic you – then guess what, a wonderful treat is found! Initially you may have to encourage the dog to dig in it, but once they get realize what is for, they will rather use the digging pit than dig somewhere which is not rewarding and if there are more dogs in the free play area or in the run, they may join in the fun - do be aware - don't place these right next to a fence that can be dug under!
You need to keep on replenishing the digging pit and make sure it doesn’t dry up of treats, or it will not be appealing. Soil is better than sand from the point of view that there is more likely to be a worm problem with sand. If you do decide on sand, then put in a handful of salt to discourage the worms on a regular basis.
Look for the best place to place the digging pit in the run, and if the dog is already digging in any one place, make this area into the digging pit but as above you dont want digging under fences. Preferable an area that is shady and if possible.
Metal Bowls
If there are any areas in the run that have brick or cement, then the use of a Metal Bowl is great. You can have various sized to suit the dogs concerned. All you do is place a treat under the bowl and let the dog push it around with its muzzle trying to get the treat from underneath.
Empty Cereal Boxes
Take an empty cardboard box. Cereal boxes and egg cartons work well for this. Put a few treats inside, then tape the box closed with masking tape leaving one side open so the dog has access, or you can leave it closed at both sides one the dog gets the hang of it. You can even take some paper and wrap the treat in this making it harder for the dog to get to it. Idea is to start of making it easy for the dog and then gradually make it harder - provides entertainment and great mental stimulation.
You can also put food-stuffed Busy Buddies in the box before you tape it up. Give the sealed box to the dog and watch him tear it open with gusto to get at the treats. When he’s finished, your box is already shredded/broken down and will take up a lot less room in the recycling container.
Scent Games
You can teach the dog to follow food put on the ground by tossing a piece on the grass/floor in front of the dog and excitedly saying ‘findies, findies’ and praising lavishly as the dog eats it. Gradually add more and more pieces of food and make the distance longer. In no time at all you will be able to tell the dog to ‘Findies’ as you go out and this will keep the dog entertained for longer and use this when you are out in the Free Play area.
A variation on this is to teach the dog to Find items under objects and then leave a whole lot of them around the run with one treat under each one – scent dogs especially love this game.
Other variations you can use to stimulate scent and here it is better to teach the dog how to play under supervision and later these can be left for the dogs by themselves in the run:-
Agility
Putting up a small agility course in the Free Play area can be great fun for dog and volunteers alike. There are portable jumps and tunnels which can be purchased or else you can put up buckets and poles from brushes, empty cardboard boxes etc which can be used as jumps or a small table to go under.
If the run is big enough to put in a Digging Pit, even if a small one, this is a great way to reduce boredom and provide further stimulation. If run is not big enough, then do consider putting one (or even more) in the free play area.
Digging is a natural, instinctive behaviour, even more so in some breeds than others, such as the Terrier breeds that were bred to dig. Breeds such as the Alaskan malamute and Siberian husky like to dig an impression in the soil to cool themselves off and Labs love digging as well. You will notice that some dogs (again especially Terriers) will dig beds on the couch or your own bed before they lie down.
The dog’s ancestors used to dig holes for protection, to store leftover bones in (some dogs still do this today), to protect their young from predators and to have a den to give birth in.
Other reasons that dogs dig is they are attracted by the smell of manure, dig out of boredom, to get rid of excess energy or to release stress or anxiety, the dog may further be rewarded by the behaviour by finding little creepy crawlies, or it may even dig just for fun.
A digging pit is like a sandbox for dogs, great to play in. Now why would your dog dig in the digging pit rather than the rose garden? Simple, you make it rewarding for the dog to dig in the legal area simply by putting in toys, chewies, bones etc in it. Have the dog next to you and let him see you place a nice bone or chew toy in the dig box. Cover it up, then making a digging motion yourself, say ‘dig, dig’ in an excited voce. As the dog is already a digger it will be quick to mimic you – then guess what, a wonderful treat is found! Initially you may have to encourage the dog to dig in it, but once they get realize what is for, they will rather use the digging pit than dig somewhere which is not rewarding and if there are more dogs in the free play area or in the run, they may join in the fun - do be aware - don't place these right next to a fence that can be dug under!
You need to keep on replenishing the digging pit and make sure it doesn’t dry up of treats, or it will not be appealing. Soil is better than sand from the point of view that there is more likely to be a worm problem with sand. If you do decide on sand, then put in a handful of salt to discourage the worms on a regular basis.
Look for the best place to place the digging pit in the run, and if the dog is already digging in any one place, make this area into the digging pit but as above you dont want digging under fences. Preferable an area that is shady and if possible.
Metal Bowls
If there are any areas in the run that have brick or cement, then the use of a Metal Bowl is great. You can have various sized to suit the dogs concerned. All you do is place a treat under the bowl and let the dog push it around with its muzzle trying to get the treat from underneath.
Empty Cereal Boxes
Take an empty cardboard box. Cereal boxes and egg cartons work well for this. Put a few treats inside, then tape the box closed with masking tape leaving one side open so the dog has access, or you can leave it closed at both sides one the dog gets the hang of it. You can even take some paper and wrap the treat in this making it harder for the dog to get to it. Idea is to start of making it easy for the dog and then gradually make it harder - provides entertainment and great mental stimulation.
You can also put food-stuffed Busy Buddies in the box before you tape it up. Give the sealed box to the dog and watch him tear it open with gusto to get at the treats. When he’s finished, your box is already shredded/broken down and will take up a lot less room in the recycling container.
Scent Games
You can teach the dog to follow food put on the ground by tossing a piece on the grass/floor in front of the dog and excitedly saying ‘findies, findies’ and praising lavishly as the dog eats it. Gradually add more and more pieces of food and make the distance longer. In no time at all you will be able to tell the dog to ‘Findies’ as you go out and this will keep the dog entertained for longer and use this when you are out in the Free Play area.
A variation on this is to teach the dog to Find items under objects and then leave a whole lot of them around the run with one treat under each one – scent dogs especially love this game.
Other variations you can use to stimulate scent and here it is better to teach the dog how to play under supervision and later these can be left for the dogs by themselves in the run:-
- a muffin or scone baking tray where a piece of food is placed underneath it. These provide about 9 or 12 opportunities for the dog to get the treats below.
- a variation of above is to use either a 24 cardboard egg tray or a smaller size and engage in the same game as above.
Agility
Putting up a small agility course in the Free Play area can be great fun for dog and volunteers alike. There are portable jumps and tunnels which can be purchased or else you can put up buckets and poles from brushes, empty cardboard boxes etc which can be used as jumps or a small table to go under.
Treat Puzzle from PVC Piping
http://newleafnickie.blogspot.co.za/2010/07/diy-dog-toy.html
A Do-It-Yourself dog toy. You simply drop some kibble in the holes, maybe smear some peanut butter in, and Voila! your dog is entertained for a little while. And uses her brain in the process!! Here's your instructions:
1. Head to your local hardware store (my favorite is Lowe's of course--it's designed with us ladies in mind), and pick out various sizes (depending on the size of your dog) of PVC and different types of end pieces. If you're not PVC savvy, no worries, it all makes sense when you get there.
2. Cut the PVC to desired length. These were made from one piece of pipe and are about 10 inches long. I used a Sawzall (no idea if I spelled that right), but you can use a manual saw as well.
(note most big hardware stores will cut to the size you want as long as you buy a length)
3. Put the end pieces on.
4. Drill some holes in various places through out the pipe and ends. (Make sure your holes are big enough for your kibble. I made that mistake at first. Small dog bites are the best.)
The two pieces on the right have big openings on the ends so it doesn't matter how big the kibble is. I usually put peanut butter in these two to keep the kibble from just falling right out. Plus it takes longer for the pup to lick all the peanut butter out.
This project cost me about $15-20 total, so around $5-7 each. I've had these for several months, which is longer than I've had ANY dog toy, labeled "virtually indestructible" or not. In my mind, well worth the price!
http://newleafnickie.blogspot.co.za/2010/07/diy-dog-toy.html
A Do-It-Yourself dog toy. You simply drop some kibble in the holes, maybe smear some peanut butter in, and Voila! your dog is entertained for a little while. And uses her brain in the process!! Here's your instructions:
1. Head to your local hardware store (my favorite is Lowe's of course--it's designed with us ladies in mind), and pick out various sizes (depending on the size of your dog) of PVC and different types of end pieces. If you're not PVC savvy, no worries, it all makes sense when you get there.
2. Cut the PVC to desired length. These were made from one piece of pipe and are about 10 inches long. I used a Sawzall (no idea if I spelled that right), but you can use a manual saw as well.
(note most big hardware stores will cut to the size you want as long as you buy a length)
3. Put the end pieces on.
4. Drill some holes in various places through out the pipe and ends. (Make sure your holes are big enough for your kibble. I made that mistake at first. Small dog bites are the best.)
The two pieces on the right have big openings on the ends so it doesn't matter how big the kibble is. I usually put peanut butter in these two to keep the kibble from just falling right out. Plus it takes longer for the pup to lick all the peanut butter out.
This project cost me about $15-20 total, so around $5-7 each. I've had these for several months, which is longer than I've had ANY dog toy, labeled "virtually indestructible" or not. In my mind, well worth the price!
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Above left - a cereal box that has been stuffed - middle Willow burying a Busy Buddy in her Digging Pit - right - small dog with metal box with treat under
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Knotted Towel (Retrobellish.com)
This idea came from wanting to recycle some old terry clothes that their dog had ripped up. These towels were still solid enough to make some kind of simple tug toy for dog to play with.
They snuggly rolled up the towel length-wise and then carefully tied one end of the rolled up towel into a big knot (making sure to tuck the towel end tip inside the loop of the know) The tug toy is very sturdy, yet strong enough that it wont hurt a dogs mouth when he pulls and bites it. Its also easy to keep clean because the tug toy can always be untied and thrown into the washer. Once the tug toy gets worn out, one can easily make another one from old towels. The towels could also be cut up into smaller strips for smaller pets.
This idea came from wanting to recycle some old terry clothes that their dog had ripped up. These towels were still solid enough to make some kind of simple tug toy for dog to play with.
They snuggly rolled up the towel length-wise and then carefully tied one end of the rolled up towel into a big knot (making sure to tuck the towel end tip inside the loop of the know) The tug toy is very sturdy, yet strong enough that it wont hurt a dogs mouth when he pulls and bites it. Its also easy to keep clean because the tug toy can always be untied and thrown into the washer. Once the tug toy gets worn out, one can easily make another one from old towels. The towels could also be cut up into smaller strips for smaller pets.
Flirt Pole
The Flirt Pole below provides endless entertainment for a dog and is really tiring. It can also be combined with obedience in that the dog has to either Down or Sit and Wait. When the dog is allowed to catch the 'prey' a Leave can be brought in. This really stimulates the prey drive in a dog and is a wonderful method of play. It is a Slideshow so you can go from picture to picture and there is also a You Tube example. On You Tube you can also find videos showing how to make a Flirt Pole and you will see that with Willow playing below, that we used a substantial toy, while in the Video they used a small one.
The Flirt Pole below provides endless entertainment for a dog and is really tiring. It can also be combined with obedience in that the dog has to either Down or Sit and Wait. When the dog is allowed to catch the 'prey' a Leave can be brought in. This really stimulates the prey drive in a dog and is a wonderful method of play. It is a Slideshow so you can go from picture to picture and there is also a You Tube example. On You Tube you can also find videos showing how to make a Flirt Pole and you will see that with Willow playing below, that we used a substantial toy, while in the Video they used a small one.
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Here are some links with further ideas for you to browse through
https://za.pinterest.com/pin/446349013049261387/
https://za.pinterest.com/pin/446349013049261440/
https://za.pinterest.com/pin/446349013049261391/
https://za.pinterest.com/pin/446349013049261340/
https://za.pinterest.com/pin/154037249732789564/
https://za.pinterest.com/pin/783204191417100079/
http://www.pavedbypawprints.com/top-10-easy-and-free-dog-toys-relieve-dog-boredom/
https://za.pinterest.com/pin/446349013049261387/
https://za.pinterest.com/pin/446349013049261440/
https://za.pinterest.com/pin/446349013049261391/
https://za.pinterest.com/pin/446349013049261340/
https://za.pinterest.com/pin/154037249732789564/
https://za.pinterest.com/pin/783204191417100079/
http://www.pavedbypawprints.com/top-10-easy-and-free-dog-toys-relieve-dog-boredom/
